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Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette.
In today's video, the sky's the limit as we dive into the design, history, and heritage
of bomber and flight jackets. ♪ Gentleman's Gazette Theme Song ♪ Bomber and flight jackets are an essential
part of the casual wardrobe, and like many men's classic garments, they were designed as
functional workwear for members of the military. It can be a tricky item to get right. After all, you
want to look more "Top Gun," and less "Top Pun." [scene from "Top Gun"] In today's video, we'll explore these
classic pieces of outerwear, talk about how you should wear them, and even give you some advice
on where to buy them.
First things first, let's get these terms defined. I don't want to go through
this whole video and confuse everyone. Bomber jacket or flight jacket: What's the difference?
Bomber jackets are often called "flight jackets"; flight jackets, "bomber jackets". And the question is:
Is this right? Well, they both are. Flight jacket and a bomber jacket will maintain many of the same
characteristics, so use the term that you want. Technically, a flight jacket is any jacket that has
aviation roots, whereas a bomber jacket was a name that was given to jackets after World War II, and
the name has stuck. Also, note that there's another style of jacket that closely resembles the bomber
or flight jacket, and that would be the Letterman or varsity jacket. Really the only distinction here
is the bright collegiate or university colors that are on a varsity or Letterman's jacket; not to
mention patches. Coming back to bomber jackets, they were originally intended and designed to keep
airmen warm in cold temperatures, and many bomber jackets today maintain those similar features.
Traditional bomber jackets are typically made from leather, sheepskin, or fabric.
The jacket is
cut to the waist, so that way, a pilot or airman can move around an airplane a lot easier. They'll
also feature a zipper or buttons to close it. Maybe they'll have external pockets, and they'll have
elastic around the cuffs and the hem. Now, that we have an understanding of bomber jackets. Let's
grab our aviation goggles, and let's look back at the history. So, in the early days of motorized
transport, airplanes did not have closed cockpits, which left the pilot at the will of the elements.
Like, I know that convertibles are nice and all, but driving one in Minnesota – no way! If we look at
cars in the exact same time period, they were also open and exposed and, oftentimes, drivers and cars
would wear long furry overcoats to keep them warm from the elements as well.
But, if you think about
aircraft, those coats were too long for flying. The cockpit of the plane was cramped, and oftentimes,
the pilot had to enter and exit vertically. There weren't doors like on a car. After all, no one
wants to be grounded prematurely by tripping over a long coat. So, at the time, flight jackets
were cut a lot shorter than car coats. Also, being up in the clouds meant that flight jackets had to
be weather resistant and, at the time of World War I, a lot of the performance materials of the
day were natural materials. So, flight jackets were constructed of sheepskin and tough pieces
of leather. And if you're a film fan, you might have seen flight jackets on this era pop up in the
2021 film "The King's Man".
This was a prequel to the other installments of the Kingsman series, and this
happened right around the time of World War I. One of the characters, the Duke of Oxford, wears a
jacket that's inspired by a lot of the jackets of that time period. Replicas were then made available
and were sold by Mr. Porter. Now, after World War I, great advances were made in aviation. Planes could
claim to even higher altitudes, exposing pilots to temperatures as low as negative 50 degrees
Celsius, and that wasn't really comfortable in unheated, unpressurized cabins of aircraft. Over
the coming years, many different iterations and designs of the flight jacket were made. American
aviator and businessman Leslie Irvin created the first sheepskin flight jacket for extreme
conditions at high altitudes. These became known as "B-Jackets" and were typically made of
sheepskin. A-Jacket models were constructed from leather that was lined with wool, cotton, or silk.
The model type A-1 was the first of a famous line of bomber jackets and was introduced between 1927
and 1931.
This was the first jacket to feature a knitted wool waistband and cuffs, setting the
design standard for flight jackets going forward. The A-1 also featured two flat cargo pockets, a
heavy cotton lining, and horn buttons. It also had a capeskin exterior. Later on, the military
eventually abandoned capeskin, which is a type of sheepskin, as it was just not durable enough the
model A-2 bomber jacket was introduced in 1931. It was produced and manufactured by various companies
up until 1943. And because of so many different manufacturers, different materials were used. But, in
general, the type A-2 is constructed of horsehide leather, which was much more hard wearing than
capeskin, and they were lined with silk. The sturdy snaps and reinforced pockets were still
there for use inside of a cockpit. The A-2's collar can be closed completely for more warmth, and the
pockets were more slim, which is perfect for an airplane. Meanwhile, in the 1930s, the model B-3 was
also being developed. This leather jacket featured a wide sheepskin collar with two other straps
that could be fastened tightly around the neck for extra warmth.
This model, like its A-letter cousins,
were used frequently in the 1930s and 40s. Once airplanes consistently had closed cockpits, the
jackets didn't need to be as bulky, so the model B-6 was made. It featured a slimmer cut, a single
leather throat latch, and it had slashed pockets. As aircraft continued to evolve into the second
World War, planes began to carry crew members that were not the pilot or the navigator. That means
more and more members of the military that needed to be outfitted for the war in the skies. With
so many members joining the Air Forces over the skies of Europe and the South Pacific on bombing
runs, this is where the name "bomber jacket" came from.
In 1943, the military introduced the model
B-10 as a replacement for the other jacket models. This was the first jacket designed with a fabric
shell and an alpaca lining. It was intended to be a lighter weight, less bulky, and more versatile
than its predecessors. Although, it was only useful for temperatures ranging between 25 and
55 degrees, the slim design became a favorite. It became so popular that many non-flying generals
decided to incorporate it into their uniform. However, the owners of A-2 flight jackets were the
elite air crew among military personnel, and they frequently decorated their jackets with artwork
and embroidery, detailing their combat exploits. The high status surrounding the A-2 carried over from
the military into civilian life, and this jacket remains one of the two most famous and most iconic
jacket designs to this day. The other famous model is the G-1. "The model G-1" is now the colloquial
term for many variations on a leather flight jacket with or without a fur collar.
Now, despite
its popularity among generals and other members of the military, the B-10 was traded out for the B-15 in
1944, but this jacket's heyday was also short-lived, and it wasn't long until the military shifted once
again to lighter weight models during the Jet Age – the MA-1 and MA-2. These jackets also feature the
knitted cuffs and waistband and typically came in either a navy or green shell with a bright
orange lining. Obviously, this also had a functional purpose as the jackets can be turned inside out to
be used as a distress signal for downed pilots.
The MA-1 had a knitted collar, while the MA-2 had a turn
down-style collar, and the look of the MA-1 closely inspires a lot of modern day bomber jackets. As
bomber jackets continue to evolve and iterate, there's no denying the style is still popular
today. Of course, there have been many different modern interpretations of the bomber jacket. You
can find them in many different materials such as cotton, polyester, linen, wool – the list goes on and
on. But, there's no denying the timeless appeal.
So, as history has shown many different bomber jacket
styles come and go, but there are some things that remain consistent. The bomber jacket is a piece of
Americana, and it is very prevalent on the Silver Screen. Not to mention the bomber jacket can be
quite character defining. So, here are a few of our favorites. The first would be Indiana Jones'
bomber jacket. Incorporating many classic menswear elements into the character design, Indiana
Jones's famous brown leather jacket is based on the A-2 model.
This jacket was created for the
1981 film "The Raiders of the Lost Ark" and features adjusters on the side for comfort. The jacket was
created for the film by Wested Leathers in Kent, England, and this jacket can still be purchased
from the original makers today. Next up are the bomber jackets worn in Top Gun – specifically,
Maverick's. Perhaps one of the most famous bomber jackets in the history of cinema, Tom Cruise's
care character Pete "Maverick" Mitchell sports an iconic leather G-1 model in the 1986 film "Top
Gun". Decorated with various military patches and insignia, this particular jacket was crafted
with authenticity in mind. The G-1 jacket was the standard issue jacket for Naval aviators during
this film's timeline. Boasting details such as a dark brown collar and a bi-swing back for added
mobility, this jacket is a perfect representation of the military's need for functional garments.
The next one is the bomber jackets in "Batman". While Jack Nicholson wore suits tailored by Tommy Nutter
on Savile Row for his portrayal of the Joker in 1989's Batman, his henchmen were decked out in
bomber jackets.
They wore black outfits topped with leather bombers that were a hybrid between
the B-10 and G-1 models, and these jackets were instantly recognizable in the Joker's signature
purple. And similar to the Top Gun bombers, these were covered with patches. However, instead of
military insignia, these were covered with the Joker's logo and sets of playing cards. Next up is
the movie "Drive" and Ryan Gosling's bomber jacket. Riffing off of lighter bomber jacket models, Ryan
Gosling wears a satin one in the 2011 film "Drive". With angled slash pockets of the waist and
high-contrast detailing, this particular jacket carries a particular aura of confidence and individuality.
And, of course, we have to mention the iconic scorpion embroidery on the back of the jacket. This
particular feature was inspired by the so-called "souvenir jackets" that GIs brought home from Japan
after World War II, and Gosling himself wanted the scorpion to feature a symbol of protection.
So, we
looked at a number of bomber jacket models and, they're placed within history. So, now, we have to
ask how do they fit with their elasticized cuffs and hems, unfortunately, they've fallen into a trend
of recent years with being oversized. Needless to say, this isn't something that you should be
looking for as it'll make it look more like a trend piece. Instead, you should look for something
that fits close with some room for mobility. This means picking a jacket with a higher armhole
like in a good suit jacket. Paying attention to this area will allow you to raise and lower your
arms comfortably. Even though the jacket features elastic at the cuffs and the hem, this shouldn't
be pulled completely tight when you're wearing it. This elastic should hug you comfortably
and allow movement. If it's too tight, it will be comfortable and, if it's all stretched out,
it won't help you stay warm. In order to get the correct body length, you want the jacket to fall at
your hips.
Remember, this jacket evolved from longer jackets into a much shorter jacket, so it wouldn't
be a hassle while flying. So, ideally, you want your jacket to hit at this height. Just below, it's okay.
But, the jacket shouldn't cover your seats. On the flip side, there should be a seal between the
bottom of the jacket and the waistband of your trousers. Please, no crop tops here. Now, a bomber
jacket sleeve length can be a little bit trickier as this is one of the few pieces of outerwear,
which will have an elastic cuff. So, to get things right, treat this jacket just like you would a
suit jacket. Essentially, the bomber jacket's cuff should end roughly at the root of your thumb for a
comfortable fit. It's okay for the main body of the sleeves to overlap the elastic cuff a little, but
it shouldn't eclipse the cuff completely. That's a sign that the jacket sleeve is too long. So, when
it comes to wearing a bomber jacket, you'll want to pick a plain, unadorned one for the most
classic look. Whether you go for leather, fabric, or suede, picking something in a brown, blue, or
green color is timeless.
Bomber jackets also come in black, but they tend to look a little bit
odd since black is such a formal color. The easiest way to incorporate a bomber jacket into a casual
wardrobe is to realize that casual clothing is key. So, a t-shirt or a casual shirt or a casual
sweater is always best as the base layer. Add-on a nice quality pair of denim jeans and a pair of
sturdy boots and you're set. This look is a great way to incorporate classic but casual elements
in your wardrobe. But, also remember that leather bomber jackets tend to look more dressed up than
fabric ones. Also, don't wear a bomber jacket over another jacket like a sport coat. Not only is this
a complete clash of formality, but you'll add just way too much bulk to your outfit. So, if you need
extra warmth, go for knitwear. We find that if a t-shirt is a little bit too cold, adding in some
knitwear is perfect. And in the depth of winter, add in a chunky knit sweater like I'm wearing today.
Now, you can increase the formality of a bomber jacket by adding in button-down shirts like an
OCBD or a flannel shirt.
These are inherently more relaxed than the typical dress shirt, which blends
the formality scale very well. To elevate the look, I would recommend trying to keep your shirt tucked
in. If you're going to untuck it, don't really let it fall underneath the bomber jacket because
that can look sloppy. Overall, it's best to tuck your shirt in. For trouser options outside of denim,
you can go with things such as chinos, corduroys, or flannels. Don't go for any super formal fabric
such as suit separates or super fine worsted wools as there will be a clash of formality.
Worsted
wool is best for more formal outfits. Linen belongs in the summer, so you'll be wearing a fall top with
a summer bottom, and that'll just look off. When it comes to footwear, stick with canvas or leather
options. So, work boots or brogues are a great option, as are canvas or leather sneakers. Steer
clear of most athletic sneakers as they are not a part of classic style.
Also, avoid the black
cap toe Oxfords. Again, the clash in formality will be way too strong. For leather footwear,
you can enjoy some more unique materials, such as hatch grain, pebble grain, or cordovan. These look
great with a lot of casual elements, especially in various shades of brown. So, how do I buy a bomber
jacket, you might ask? Well, you could find a vintage model, but those can fetch several thousands of
dollars. Plus, the sizing isn't the same that it is today, so it might be a challenge. But, if you're
happy to put in the work, you can go to places like eBay or you can shop vintage in person, in
which case Preston and Raphael here have many tips. Of course, there are many options for bomber
jackets on the High Street, but keep in mind, that many of them are just going to be fashion elements.
Instead, you should go for what would be considered reproduction bomber jackets. By this, we mean taking
the design of a older bomber jacket with modern build quality and materials. They'll be brand new
and they'll break in and patina with you, meaning that you'll have a piece that will evolve with you.
Eastman Leather, Cockpit USA, and US Wings offer a range of various leather models with US Wings
also offering nylon flight jackets.
In addition, Alpha Industries also offers many good models, and
they were the original producers of the Top Gun jacket. Also consider Wested Leather as they made
the originals for Indiana Jones. A couple others that I like on the higher end of the spectrum
would be The Real McCoy or also Private White has a really nice flight jacket with a shearling
collar. So, as we touch down on our journey through the sartorial skies, it's plain to see that
leather jackets have been soaring in popularity. So, whether you wear your bomber jackets with a
modern style or with a vintage aesthetic, we would love to hear more on how you wear them down in
the comments below? In today's video, I'm wearing a leather jacket in a brown shade of suede.
It's in
a flight style and from a maker called the Jacket Maker. The Jacket Maker sent over some jackets to
our team, but this video is 100% not sponsored. You can see that it features two flap pockets right
on the hips, and it has a button closure. I love this suede jacket because I really love suede
as a material and it works really well with the casual nature of what I like to wear. Underneath,
I have a chunky gray sweater in a commando style, very similar to what James Bond would wear. This
is from L.L. Bean. My jeans are a pair of selvedge jeans from Bravestar. I'm wearing a pair of the
brass boots from Grant Stone. These are in a waxy, brown commander leather. My socks are a Fort
Belvedere prototype. They're in this really cool red, diamond pattern. And since we're talking
about pieces of aviation history, I'm wearing a Cartier Santos on my wrist. This was sent
over from our friends over at Del Rey Watch.
Again, they're not a sponsor of our channel, but they
send us watches, and we always say, "thank you." If you want to get any Fort Belvedere products, you
can check out the link to the shop here. ♪ Gentleman's Gazette Theme Song ♪.
